This is a guide, and only a guide into intercourse with female canines. This is an overlaying outline of the norm, on an individual basis conditions and situations may differ. All the advice given is from personal experience and advanced education, not second hand sources. If your experience is different, then you fall outside the category this guide is written for.
I will cover several aspects and important information on sex with female canines
(Bitches)
Topic headings will be in bold to help you find the section that most helps you.
I will also give a small tutorial at canine behavior for those who are unfamiliar with signs. A dog will not give you mixed signals, she will tell you exactly what she wants even if it confuses you to no end.
A misconception
There is no such thing as training a dog for sex. There are different things that a dog can or will learn about sex and sex techniques, but there is not dog sex training. Puppies are sexually immature. Yes they will go into heat, but her body is still developing and the last thing she needs is worrying about you touching her new things.
Do not ever try to “train” a dog for sex. A canine that enjoys your company can be shown techniques later on. First show her you intend to care for her and love her for more than her cunt. Then you truly can enjoy each other.
WHAT ABOUT DOG SIZE?
For bitches, size does matter. For vaginal contact nothing smaller than an Australian shepherd should have sexual contact with humans. Some select medium breeds can have human intercourse, but it is suggested that large and giant breeds are more suited to take human sizes.
THE KNOT FITS, WHY WON’T I?
The dogs’ penis is not like a humans. A human keeps a marginally tapered penis with a nervous ring about the head. A dogs’ penis is tapered with a nervous head and a knot. But the knot is not the base of the penis. There is a continuing shaft of the penis behind the knot. When a dog mounts a bitch the penis is not at full size. Once inside the vaginal canal (age and experience apply here) the dog will put the unengorged bulbous glands into her vaginal canal and past her pubic bone before it swells, engorged with blood to it’s size, the section of penis behind the knot remains outside the pubic bone retains about it’s original slim size. So the knot is not what the size comparison you need, it’s the shaft. If the knot forms outside the vaginal canal it usually will not fit unless there is a significant size difference.
AT WHAT AGE CAN A DOG HAVE INTERCOURSE?
After two years is the best recommended time before vaginal intercourse. A dog will continue to grow and develop for up to three years. A male dog is only a little less for human contact, at about 18 months he may show signs of actual sexual behavior. Do not mistake dominance or play humping as sexual behavior.
If you hurt or force yourself on a bitch she will fear you and live miserable and afraid. You are her protector and the one human in this world she needs to love her and take care of her because she deserves it, not because she gives it up or is a good sex toy.
ALL ABOUT, HER
The female canine body is as with most females, a work of art. The lovely triangular folds,.. but I have seen many questions. Where is the clit?
Well here is your answer. The clit is located between the vaginal opening and the clitoral fossa, these are your landmarks. You can feel them and see them and I like to taste them too.
Here is your road map of the intimate canine folds.
LUBEING UP
What kind of lubrications can be used. A very important question as it affects your partner. Saliva or K-Y jelly are the best to use. DO NOT USE PETROLEUM PRODUCTS. Petroleum products such as baby oil or Vaseline are used to draw moisture out and away, so if used in sex, all the natural lubrication and moisture is drawn away. Meaning, it dries her out.
Some brands of sex lube are okay, avoid stimulating lubes as some dogs may have allergic reaction (try explaining that to the vet). Also avoid latex condoms with lube.
GOING IN
The canine vagina can be entered first at a 45 degree angle, and then you straighten out a bit and you can enter her vaginal canal. Do not mistake the clitoral fossa for the vaginal canal.
From top to bottom your bitch will have,
Vaginal opening
Clitoris
Clitoral fossa
The clitoral fossa is a dead end. But may confuse people.
THE FIRST TIME
IF AT ANY POINT SHE SHOWS DISCOMFORT OR RESIGNATION, STOP!
If your girl has never had sex before, or is spayed/not menstruating and is her first time, Be gentle. Use a lot of lube and play with her nipples and vulva. Go farther slowly and stimulate her clit. Make circles around her nervious bud clockwise and then counterclockwise. Fondle her as much as you can to loosen her up as much as possible this way and tease her vaginal opening with your finger and or tongue. DO NOT use objects to “widen” her. If she can’t take you she can’t take you. Using a well lubricated index finger push into her opening. If she has a hymen it will feel like you are pushing against a wall with a spot in the middle. If you are not sure, make sure. You can use your pinky finger to press into the hole. It will feel like you have one of those rubber bands for braces on your finger.
Lube up your pinky really well and press your finger into the hole and finger the little hole until you can get the first knuckle into it without much resistance. Again, if you encounter any pain or discomfort action from her stop immediately.
If she is comfortable press into her slowly stimulating her clit and doing other nice things as foreplay (ear nibbles and nuzzling worked for mine.) Give her breaks between fingerings and continue to larger fingers until you can get a good insert size.
ANAL SEX WITH BITCHES
Some bitches will let you do them analy. If this is the case never ever insert the penis (finger dildo etc.) into the vagina after it has been in the anus. This can cause infections to include bladder and vaginal infections.
Remember that canines have anal glands. These can be released when fearful. The insertion of the penis or finger may also cause the release of the glands. Stimulating the anus in any way can eventually cause the release of the anal glands. In personal experience I fondled my bitchs’ sphincter along the outside and rimmed her with my fingers lightly, just teasing her, never penetrating and it caused her to express her glands.
The other thing is you want to be careful to not damage the glands. Most of the mess from anal intercourse with dogs is the anal glands which are quite potent smelling. Make sure before you give your lover a wanted anal session you sniff her out and make sure she smells healthy. If there is an unusual scent, or an infection scent take her to the vet. Anal glands can get impacted and infected, the vet can relieve this.
Scooting is often a sign of anal gland impaction and should be brought to the notice of the vet. Often a higher fiber diet is in order. Libbys’ canned pumpkin, one tablespoon a day will often keep her regular and help prevent anal gland impaction, but will not release already impacted glands. Some breeds are more prone to infection than others.
I LOVE HER, BUT SHE’S TOO SMALL
Remember the rule of comfort, if she is not comfortable, stop.
Love holds no bounds and when one is too small for the desired affect of physical contact there are always options.
Hotdog hotdoging is quite simple and pleasurable to both if warranted. Hotdoging is quite simply putting the length of your penis along the slit of her vulva and stroking along her folds. This will stimulate the clit and is quite arousing even fun for bitches that can take you, and can be used as foreplay.
This can be done in both missionary and doggie style with success. The advantage to hotdogging is you are stimulating her clit and vulva more than actually penetrating her would do.
Fingering Fingering is another method of being intimate that can fill a need in pleasure. You can hold her close to you, both of you laying down, it works best if her back is to your belly, and just fondle her vulva and stroke her clit. The best way I have found to fingering my bitches is to have a lubed finger or if she’s wet enough it’s fine. Stick your finger to the top of her clit and then slip off to the side of her bead and make a circle around it clockwise. My bitches usually jerk and stretch a lot, and as I feel them starting to relax again I go counterclockwise.
You do not have to press hard, as a matter of fact if you can do it lightly you get more reaction. Once she relaxes again change direction and for the finally take two fingers and even out your fingertips and stroke over her clit softly but firm let it slip through the V made by your fingertips. Start slow and work fast, then go back into circles and your girl should be tossing her head and squirming by now and her clit should look very large.
CANINE ORAL FOR HER
Yes you can give her fun and I suggest the sweet sweet taste of canine cunny. But again, some bitches do not like oral. If she is uncomfortable, stop.
Yes, you can give oral in heat, yes you can give oral to spayed/between heats bitches.
How to start. I suggest trying it as she is standing first. See how she takes to it. If she seems interested you may continue or try it on her back. Do not try a 69 the first time on her back, the new position may scare her if she is not used to it and she will be curious what you are doing. Let her lean up and sniff you out as you begin to lap at her vulva. But move her out of the way if she laps at her own vulva after watching what she is doing and lap her where she indicated. This will show her she can direct you, after a few times she will learn, or at least mine did.
The pointed tip of her vulva is an excellent point to lick into as it’s closest to the clitoris. Slit licking is fine but for some reason if you broaden your tongue while in her folds and just wiggle your flat tongue over her clit she goes nuts.
WHAT IS SHE TELLING ME?
No one knows your bitch better than you. You know her reactions to pain pleasure or fear. If you do not know how to communicate with your mate/lover you have no business asking for sex.
Canine language is complex but simple to those who live around animals. This will help you understand why your girl does what she does. Tail flagging (moving the tail out of the way of her genitals and looking over her shoulder) is obvious for “take me stud” but what about getting to that point?
To understand if she wants you it is simple. In a safe place, where you feel safe and she does too, get undressed and let her explore you at her descression, don’t just start flopping your equipment in her face or fingering her. Sit still and see if she takes notice of you, if she seems distracted she may not be comfortable, just let her get used to her area, but if she runs to you and away play with her nonsexually. Roughhouse and give her your full undivided attention, pull rope toys or whatever she enjoys. Then as she wears down, on all fours, sniff her nose and her shoulder, to her tailbace on the top, then sniff at her vulva.
Here she will decide what to do next, she may whip around and growl, sit down or try to play some more. Don’t be frustrated, she may not want anything more than a platonic relationship. Even her cycle will not cause her to accept you if she doesn’t want you. Don’t hurt her or abandon her if she rejects you sexually. Just love her as she wants.
On the other paw if she decides that she wants to take the relationship further she will be still or sniff lightly at you and perhaps even lick you. Reciprocate by licking her vulva or touching her softly, don’t stick anything in her yet. Put an arm around her shoulder and pull up on over her back and mount her. If she is still or flags you can continue accordingly.
MEDICAL
Some explanations will not be the full explanation for the sake of time and interest but if it is a constantly asked question I will by all means expand on the reason or process of the questioned action or cause/result.
if your mate has a problem and it really concerns you, be safer than sorry and visit your Vet. Your Veterinarian wants you to have a healthy and happy pet/companion/lover as much and sometimes more then you do. But please take into account that unlike a human hospital, a veterinary hospital is not underwritten, and money lost directly affects them. They will work with you on budgets, or you can find one that will.
There are a lot of charities around that will also help you to include shot clinics and cheep spay neuter clinics.
These topics really concerned me as I read the question and got the feedback from people. I will try to make this simple to follow and easy to find what you are looking for by scrolling down. Questions can be posted and answered as best available. Some may refer you back to the main text. All answers are directed to guide human sexual contact. This is not a dog breeding guide.
WHAT IS THE AVERAGE K-9 LIFESPAN
Taking into account proper medical care, love and food and breeding:
Small breed 14-21 yrs
Medium breed 14-18 yrs
Large breed 12-16 yrs
Giant breed 9-12 yrs
This will not cover every case and is only an average of ages. There will be exceptions.
WHAT ABOUT SPAYED BITCHES?
A spayed bitch may or may not have an interest in having sex. A “first heat” is not necessary for sexual wants.
Being spayed will not shorten her vaginal canal. In America it is taught to cut above the cervix for two reasons, to avoid contamination and bleeding out or expulsion of internal organs through the vaginal canal should a suture slip. (The abdomen is a positive pressure area in the body, any hole through the abdominal wall could push most of the internal organs out, mostly intestines as they are most motile. The best example of this is the umbilical hernia. What most owners refer to as the “outy bellybutton” is actually where the umbilical hole did not close and now part of the omentum and possibly intestine could be trapped under the skin [subcutaneous] and if the abdominal muscles ligate the section of intestine and it necroticises, it will kill the dog) also the cervix is left intact because of the possibility of infection through urine or other contaminates that may cause infection. The rule here is that the vaginal canal is dirty, everything past the cervix is sterile. The cervix is the doctor and bitch’s friend.
Do not allow her to have vaginal intercourse for about 10 months for healing. So if done as a puppy would be best.
HORMONES AND HEAT
An intact bitch between heats and a spayed bitch will have the same hormone levels. Estrogen in particular was brought up. Estrogen is produced in more than the ovaries. When the ovaries are removed the estrogen levels will remain the same. Estrogen deficiency will be marked by incontinence and or bed wetting. The valve at the bladder is estrogen controlled. So as there is less estrogen, bladder control becomes an issue and can be treated by your veterinarian.
Progesterone is the main hormone for heats, it prepares the bitch for breeding and pregnancy. It sets the time for ovulation and thus optimal breeding times. This is the primary hormone that will cause heats, not estrogen.
PYOMIETREA
Pyometra is always fatal if untreated.
This is a deadly condition commonly seen in unsprayed bitches and cases where the uterus was not removed but the ovaries were (mostly in Europe). If you live in Europe you will need to ask if the vet will remove the uterine horns as well to avoid this.
Your sperm can cause pyometra because its job is to enter the uterus, then it dies and can cause infection.
My dog is always in heat, she never stops.
No, you are not the luckiest guy in the world.
This is bad, very bad. This means that there is a problem with her ovaries, most likely cancer benign or malignant may apply, but a problem of some sort has cause hormonal imbalance and will cause your bitch to toxify and die.
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